Hello!
(…and welcome to my first blog ever thanks to Catherine Eng Design )
This time directly from Zambia. Thanks for your interest in our work! The short version is that the workshop has started, is doing very well - and so do I - Thanks to the lovely people I’m working with out here… How about yourselves at home? Hope all is well!
Following is a resume of my first African impressions and the workshop that has started today and just as planned:
I arrived in Johannesburg on Wednesday afternoon, passed the customs without any problem and was met by a slightly lost-looking South African taxi driver holding a ‘Klaus Fritz’ sign, as my local photographer friend had instructed him. He took me directly to my friend’s exceptionally beautiful (albeit well-guarded) house. I was welcomed with a cold beer (or two) and soon heard many interesting stories about my friends life in South Africa. After a restful night, he took me on an abbreviated daylong (wallet and camera-free) tour of Johannesburg’s different neighborhoods, told me how things used to be during the time of uprising and how they have changed over the past few years of desegregation. We also visited the former military fortress and infamous political prison at the heart of town, which in recent years experienced a most wonderful and touching transformation. It now holds the constitutional court, an excellent book store and a museum memorializing the struggle against Apartheid. The very beautiful and modern constitutional court was literally built from the rubble of oppression - bricks that made up large parts of the political prison compound, while plenty of the old prison structure was properly preserved to acknowledge the abuses suffered, the lives spent, shortened and lost behind these walls. It is hard to imagine that Apartheid and its terrible human rights abuse was in effect so recently. This alone makes it quite admirable that South Africa - in its persisting social extremes, functions at all in the extent it does on a political level. Obviously everyone living here can only hope for the best.
By Friday morning I was off to the airport once again. Unbeknownst to me, the inside-Africa luggage allowance was 20kg below the international one and my 18 kg overweight was charged at a rate worthy of an 18 kg child. But it was worth it considering all the student’s equipment I was carrying and the non-existing alternative. At least upon my arrival in Lusaka, customs was no problem once again. Mary and Bob (the current onsite ZCF managers) were already waiting for me in the arrival area and took me to the newest and surprisingly fancy shopping mall in Lusaka. We picked up some essentials for the week, I confirmed prices and turn-around times with the local photo lab, dropped a veeery sloooow email and then we hit the road to Chishawasha.
I was impressed to see how pleasantly located and nicely built the general structures are on the Chishawasha campus. If I wasn’t here for work I could easily consider it a simple place to come for mellow weekends on the country side. The weather at this time of the year is beyond perfection, the sunsets are beautiful and the southern night-sky, away from the smog of the Lusaka valley is brilliant. In such a scenario the kids would only be a bonus.
I received a warm welcome from them (…already going by Uncle Klaus) and from the house-mom my first dinner of enshima, a cornmeal- resembling mashed potatoes, eaten daily and by hand along with changing sides of vegetables, sauces, meats and fish. After dinner the kids actually drummed, danced and sang on the veranda, making me feel rather surreal, like I just stepped into a movie set. Alas, no Angela Jolie or Brad Pitt suddenly turned the corner - not this time. After all this is ‘The real Africa’ (according to the Zambian Tourism Authority), and I soon turned in for a good night’s sleep. My bedroom is a perfectly nice room in a perfectly nice house that is also a clinic and staff house. It even has hot water - who would have thought! My room mates Mary and Bob are interesting, mellow and caring. Having a doctor / therapist couple as room mates feels pretty safe, and it is indeed perfectly safe out here - almost being the countryside. Speaking of personal safety: As little as I have so far seen of Lusaka and its people, it appears like a walk in the park compared to the tension-ridden neighborhoods of Johannesburg I briefly skirted.
The weekend was full of photogenic events like 30 kids painting the house, taking the Land Rover to get 17 kids to the barber shop, Sunday service at a tent-church, washing the laundry etc. - so it’s only good that the workshop will require good time from me or I may quickly run out of hard-drive space… Plus, the days are short, both figuratively and in reality since it’s late in the year for the southern hemisphere. I had to keep my eyes o the ball to get my introductory 2-hour lessons prepared, which I was to give twice on Monday (20 children each) in proper classrooms with desks and blackboards at the very cute and very well-built Chishawasha school.
All children assemble each morning on a vast schoolyard and sing the (very singable) national anthem, standing on African red dirt under the waving flag of Zambia. My turn came later in the morning and five hours later my only regret would be that I can only do the full workshop with 9 kids and 3 teens, not the whole sweet bunch of them. But considering that I’m a first-time teacher, all 40 kids received a nice introduction toward photography and visual literacy. Language seemed to be no issue - that’s as long as I was the one doing the talking… The kids tend to be on the respectfully quiet side, so for some of them my intro was certainly more challenging than they admitted, while at the same time, of course I don’t want to underestimate anyone; all in all I think I was received very well.
After two hours of ‘last minute’ preparations and a solid four hours of teaching I was utterly wiped (hats off to ‘real’ teachers). Someones solid hinting via Mary’s email at their expecting news from their son in law made me still write these lines the same night… but I decided to wait for a trip to the email cafe until Wednesday when I can bring the first film to the lab.
On Tuesday my first workshop group class was scheduled for 2 pm but half of the 12 students were missing due to some scheduling issues. Complete by 2.45 pm, the students handled the cameras for the first time. Even though these are simple cameras, it took a while to explain and practice it all. Especially working with a focus lock (a mechanism barely audible and entirely invisible) is not an easy concept to understand (most amateurs don’t) but I think some of my students may get there eventually. Our only Calcutta veteran camera broke down half way through its first film, but unless we start seeing mysterious disappearances (the first assignment film and cameras should be handed in tonight…) we’re still o.k. with the remaining and mostly new cameras.
I’m not telling much about the specific kids in my group as there may still be a couple of changes; two kids from local communities may ultimately not be able to invest the necessary time, for reasons that are a little hard to determine. But maybe we can still figure it out. Plus it takes of course some time to get to know each other a little bit. All the Chishawasha kids were very excited to finally get to photograph and I’m curious what comes out of the first rolls of film. The small kids now come up to me - predictably tugging my sleeve saying “I want a camera”. Get in line shorty, maybe in a couple of years. Again I was too wiped right after class to still go and pursue the workshop kids with my own camera. I’ll have to work on my teacher’s stamina if I want to document this one man affair properly. Though I hope once the basics are explained and understood, my mental workload will ease up. Upcoming excursions should also help the situation.
Be well at home!
Greetings from the Chishawasha Childrens Home,
Lusaka, Zambia, Africa, Planet Earth.
Please visit my project web site at:
http://www.tribeofman.com/zambia